While there were many highlights specific to particular specialties, one of the demos that seemed to be garnering a fair amount of buzz regardless of the trade or interest of the person giving it a try was the station set up to show off Milwaukee's new M18 cordless heat gun and the M12 cordless soldering iron.

I've had a corded heat gun for years, but I often find myself needing to use it in situations where it would be far more handy to not bother with an extension cord or finding a nearby outlet. So when Milwaukee sent us a bare tool to try, I was eager to put it through its paces so I could do a review.

Since we received the heat gun, we've been using it regularly and can say without a doubt that it is very useful and convenient. At the same time we I can also say that a corded heat gun does offer some differences and potential advantages that you need to consider if you're thinking of buying one.

M18 Compact Heat Gun

At just over one and a half pounds (without battery), it lives up to its name. The weight of the gun will obviously increase substantially depending on the size of the battery you choose, and I would suggest you go with as high capacity of a battery as you can with this tool. 

Speaking of batteries, the heat gun uses the M18 REDLITHIUM battery format that drives all of Milwaukee's 18v tools. So if you already have other red 18v tools, you won't need to pick up any additional batteries.

Hands on, this heat gun performs really well. It heats up very quickly and came up to a decent operating temperature of over 200 degrees Fahrenheit within about 30 seconds and a top operating temp of 875 degrees. It also has a very convenient LED light that will provide a good amount of light on the area you're heating, a flat bottom using the battery, and a convenient ladder hook on the back so you don't need to set it down anywhere that a hot tip might damage. But enough about the specs, let's take a look at how it works in real life.

Let me just tell you, this little heat gun came in very handy several weeks ago during the big freeze in the DC area and much of the rest of the country.

First we had a frozen toilet supply at our Foursquare as a result of an area below the floor with insufficient insulation. Without a corded heat gun on hand we broke out the cordless and made short work of the blockage.

Shortly after that frozen supply issue we returned home to Alexandria following several days of 8 degree lows and found our entire house was without running water. As it turned out the supply line for our whole house had frozen outside at the water meter. Our area is certainly not used to single digit temps, and apparently the water meters are a little too exposed to the frigid air. While Wendy was on hold to our water company (there were tons of callers ahead of her due to the cold temps) I took our Milwaukee heat gun and little Rover LED light outside in the frigid temps and started warming the water meter. 

After about 10 minutes of warming the meter and nearby elbow, the ice blockage came free and water to the house resumed. It certainly saved the day, and it was extremely convenient to take care of the issue without dragging extension cords from inside of the house to the outside. And the best news, we were able to get the water running before Wendy was taken off hold.

Beyond using the heat gun to warm frozen pipes (or thaw frozen padlocks, which it also does well) we've also used it to soften up some paint, as well as apply some heat shrink tubing when repairing our Christmas lights by removing a bad socket. 

In this case we opted to cut out the bad socket and soldered the two wires together (using Milwaukee's M12 cordless soldering iron). 

Then using the heat gun to cover the repair with some heat shrink tubing (using one of the attachments that also works well for pex repair).

These two tools made short work of our project in a tremendously convenient way. Quick and easy setup, safe operation, and a light on the soldering iron to let me know when the tip was cool enough to be put away.

The pros of this heat gun are clear. Fast to temp, compact, cordless, and reliable. It's versatile and can be used in many situations where it might be difficult or inconvenient to use a traditional corded heat gun. Best of all, as I mentioned, if you have other M18 Milwaukee tools, you've already got batteries.

As great as this tool is, there are also a few cons. At 6 CFM there's not a ton of airflow, so it's not going to really blast what you're working on. In other words, this isn't going to strip a lot of paint for you. Its top temp can't beat most corded guns, the temp isn't variable, and it does tend to chew through batteries, so it's probably best to have a spare charging if you're planning to use it a lot. 

All that being said, I can certainly recommend this compact heat gun if you're in the market for a cordless heat gun option. It should work really well for hobbyists working on electrical projects, people in the automotive markets, and people that are looking to easily fix kinks in PEX, just to name a few groups that will love it. 

Did you enjoy reading this post? Want to learn more about our first-hand experiences with other tools, devices or items used throughout our renovation? If so, check out our complete list of product reviews in our Toolbox Tuesday section. 

Note: We were provided samples of the tools to try but we weren't compensated for this review. We simply want to share good products when we see them, and hope that learning from our experiences and/or mistakes can help save you time, money and frustration.

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Whether we’re talking about the ability to actually see what you’re working on, safely use power tools, or spot imperfections before it’s too late, good lighting is more than critical, it’s essential.

Over the last several weeks I’ve been testing out some of Milwaukee’s newest offerings in their personal lighting line. This series of battery powered headlamps, flashlights and an extremely versatile personal floodlight were a highlight of their new tool unveiling event earlier this year. And ever since I laid eyes on them I was eager to give them a try as I suspected they’d all be real winners.

Now that I’ve had some serious hands-on time with these new products, I can confirm that many of these lighting options should be a “must add” to quite a few people’s holiday shopping lists this year. So if you’re looking for that perfect gift to round out your tool obsessed family member’s stocking, the TL;DR of this post is simple. Everything we've been using have been pretty fantastic, I really like all of them, and I think they are completely worth buying!

There are two primary options of personal lighting, an alkaline battery headlamp and pen light, and a series of USB rechargeable lithium-ion lights based on the Milwaukee REDLITHIUM platform. I’ve liked using all of these lights, but I’m going to focus on the rechargeable line for this review.

Headlamp

My past relationship with other headlamps has been somewhat contentious. The headlamps I’ve used in the past seem to die at the worst possible time and without warning. If they provide enough light it seems like they’re way too big and heavy (which means uncomfortable), or their battery life is insufficient. And even worse, it seems like the lightweight and compact headlamps are never really quite bright enough, like a frustrating dream where you just can’t quite get the light you need. (You’ve had these dreams, right?)

Well this Milwaukee headlamp has addressed all of my major disappointments in prior headlamps, and made some significant improvements where I didn’t even know they were needed.

Let's get one thing out of the way, this is technically a hardhat headlamp but it's really far more versatile than that. It’s meant to be clipped to hard hats on job sites (via the elastic band and a few provided plastic clips), but that doesn’t really apply to us DIYers. The only drawback about this is that the backing on the headlamp is a harder rubber and not a nice and comfortably padded foam to rest against your forehead. The rubber works fine against your forehead, but I also overcame this by wearing a backwards baseball hat when I was using the headlamp. Problem solved.

So far my favorite uses for this light has been when using it to provide ample light while cleaning out our shed in otherwise pitch black darkness after the sun had set...

...lighting up a completely darkened crawl space while doing some electrical work...

...providing a bright light on trim painting without any shadows from my own body/head in front of a worksite light, making it much easier to cut in with accuracy...

...attaching it to my jigsaw to provide better light to cut by (kind of a hack but extremely useful), and really highlighting the details of our window sash that still needed to have paint removed or damaged mortise and tenon pegs that needed to be dug out.

I even used it as my headlight for biking home in the dark, but had to turn down the brightness a bit so I didn't blind other riders or cars on the road.

It seems like every time I turn around I’m popping this thing on my forehead to get a better look at my work.

During use, the headlamp (and actually all of the REDLITHIUM personal lighting options) will flash several times when the battery charge/time remaining goes below 50%. Beyond convenience and or warning, I assume this is so you know when you should turn around if you’re hiking in the woods with this light on. If it’s at or below 50% right when you turn it on, it will flash immediately to alert you to the low charge. And when it finally reaches the end of its charge, it does not slowly dim away, instead it gives a final few flashes and shuts off immediately.

The charger port is covered with a rubber cover to keep any dirt out, and the power button and mode button are rubber and located on the opposite side of the headlamp. When charging, the small battery LED shows red, orange, flashing green, and then solid green to indicate the level of charge the battery has achieved. This is a great way to know just how far from a full charge you may be when you need to grab it off the cord and go. When charging you're looking at a full charge in about two hours and a 50% charge in under 30 minutes. 

Compared to the smaller 3x AAA battery powered headlamp to its left, you can see that the larger headlamp is certainly heavier, but also offers over 50% more lumens (475 on the brightest settings compared to 300 for the smaller headlamp). There are five different brightness settings, and the brightness you choose will allow the headlamp to run anywhere from two hours to an astounding 31 hours on a full charge, just depends on how bright you need the light to be.

This is really a fantastic headlamp and I haven't been able to find anything that would dissuade me from recommending it. The only thing I can say is that if you're using this near your spouse, resist the urge to look at them if they are talking to you, as it will surely give them a headache if they keep having to stare into this extremely bright light. Trust me. I speak from experience.

Check out Milwaukee's site for more information complete specs on their USB Rechargeable Hard Hat Headlamp. Currently on sale in many stores for $59.00.

Rover Floodlight

The second of these mighty little lights may surprise you. It’s called the Rover personal flood light and consists of eight LEDs in a compact and easily carried plastic case.

This little light has been the buzz of many HVAC, electrical, and plumbing pros since its release due to its ability to light tight spaces in creative ways. What that means for the hobbyist is exactly the same. This light is perfect for lighting under the sink, in dark corners of the basement, or in those hard to reach areas in the attic.

One of the coolest features of this light is the relatively strong magnet built into the end and side of the plastic case. This allows you to easily place it on duct work, your electrical panel, or anything else made of metal, and know that it will stay put.

Like the headlamp, the charging port is covered by a little rubber gasket when not in use. It seems sturdy and not likely to tear off after use.

The light this little floodlight puts out is clean and crisp, but also relatively warm for an LED. This is thanks to something Milwaukee calls "TRUEVIEW." It aims to provide crisp and natural light so you're getting a true and accurate look at the area you're lighting.

Check out Milwaukee's site for more information complete specs on their USB Rechargeable Rover Pocket Flood Light. Currently on sale in many stores for $59.00.

Flashlight

Finally, the USB rechargeable flashlight rounds out the current line. This compact but extremely solid aluminum LED flashlight is what you’d expect based on what I’ve said about the headlamp and the Rover. It’s the brightest of the USB rechargeable options at up to 700 lumens, charges quickly, warns at half charge and low charge, and allows you to recharge via a standard USB power cable.

Beyond the similarities it shares with its siblings, this flashlight is rugged, waterproof, dust proof, drop resistant, and has a convenient twist and lock to access the USB charging port when you need it, but to keep dirt and debris out of the port when not in use.

If you’re anything like me, this flashlight will end up rolling around in your toolbox until you need it and keeping the charging port free of crud is a must.

When in use this flashlight has three different power settings: a high, low, and flash/alert, and does an amazing job lighting even distant areas. The rubber power button on the back is solid and easy to use with a very positive feel. You won't accidentally end up turning the light on or off.

This flashlight has replaced the prior flashlight in my toolbox because it's compact, brighter, tougher, and USB rechargeable. One very minor issue I noticed is that the power button on the back end means you can't sit the flashlight on its end on the ground or a flat surface. However, if you twist the back as if you're going to charge it, the end slides over the power button and you can sit it on its end without issue.

Check out Milwaukee's site for more information complete specs on their USB Rechargeable 700L Flashlight. Currently on sale in many stores for about $69.00.

Accessories

While these lights come with a Milwaukee branded anodized USB cable for charging, I’m finding that I’d prefer the ability to quickly swap batteries when they get low, rather than needing to plug in the light for a recharge.

Although we didn’t receive any extra batteries or a charger to test, it seems like a no-brainer to pick one up if you’re going to be using any of these lights regularly. That way you can keep your spare battery charged and when you’re running low, just quickly swap them out. I've seen the battery charger kit with an extra battery in several stores for about $40.

Overall these lights as accessories address many of the shortcomings of prior personal lighting solutions I've used. No more dealing with dead batteries and hunting for replacements, no more low and fading light, and no more breakage after a minor drop. Now that we've been using these lights for a good while, we can absolutely say we're fans.

Like I said earlier, these lighting solutions would make a pretty killer addition to your holiday shopping lists. What better way to make someone's Christmas morning than by putting a 475 lumen headlamp, 445 lumen Rover, or 700 lumen flashlight under the tree? And maybe they could double as a way to add a little extra up light to the Christmas tree if you're feeling creative. And remember, a better method for lighting can only help the overall success of a project, so we think it's a winning combo all around.

Did you enjoy reading this post? Want to learn more about our first-hand experiences with other tools, devices or items used throughout our renovation? If so, check out our complete list of product reviews in our Toolbox Tuesday section. 

Note: We were provided samples of the tools to try but we weren't compensated for this review. We simply want to share good products when we see them, and hope that learning from our experiences and/or mistakes can help save you time, money and frustration.

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From drop clothes to old carpet, pretty much every option has been tried and each has their pros and cons when it comes to keeping paint, dust, scratches, liquid, tools, boots, and just about anything else from ruining your finished floor.

The naysayers will proudly state “this is why you should finish your floors after your major work is complete!” But we all know this is a pipe dream and not based in reality. Even if you are doing it all in the “right order” you’re probably painting the room after the floor is done. And if you’re a DIYer, there’s a good chance you’re working around beautifully finished floors in just about every project. Finishing floors is often one of those things people do right when they buy their home, then they work on all of their projects over the years (it’s how we’ve done it twice).

Notice the beautiful floors and ignore all of the work the walls and trim need

We've tried many different temporary flooring protection approaches over the years, and last week we applied what is our newest favorite product to protect our flooring. This is critical when dealing with soft antique pine flooring that is easily damaged by a dropped tool or drug ladder. We're hoping our experience can help you select the right material to protect your floors, which is why we're talking about our use of Ram Board today.

We actually started using Ram Board about two years ago in our living room, applying it around the perimeter while doing plastering. We really liked how it protected the new finish on the floors from inevitable plaster splatter, and that it didn't let wet material bleed through onto the wood. But in this case it was just used for perimeter protection to get a feel for the material. After finishing up and pulling everything out of the room we were very happy to see that it hadn't damaged the new finish of the floor (it's actually designed to let newly finished floor breathe while covering), had done an excellent job protecting the very soft pine, and likely could have been reused had we wanted to clean it off (it had so much plaster dust on it, we opted to roll it up and toss it).

In addition to how we used it in the living room, Wendy also fashioned a makeshift workspace/storage area in our back "hobbit" room by covering the floor with Ram Board. To this day, it's still holding strong. We ended up using duct tape to hold it all together (but not applied to the floor), which has started to peel up a little recently.

Now that we're kicking off the hallway project we don't want to take any chances in this smaller area. We'll be working on the ceiling and walls, so we want to completely cover the floor for the duration of the work.

For our project so far we purchased two rolls of 38" x 100' for use between the workroom, living room, and hallway, and have a good amount left over. Since the Ram Board comes in rolls it has a tendency to curl up at the cut ends rather than try to deal with the duct tape again, this time we went ahead and bought a roll of the RamBoard Seam Tape.

This tape is 3" wide and is made specifically to hold the material together at the seams. It's not meant to be applied directly to the floor, but covering the entire space pretty much locks everything in place to the point where you don't need to tape directly to any flooring. We found that a socked foot does a pretty great job of really securing the tape, though I'm sure a sleeve or towel would work just as well. 

The Ram Board material feels like a pliable cardboard and is 46 mil thick, which is substantial. But it cuts extremely easily with both utility knife and scissors. Our cutting tool of choice is a pair of heavy duty scissors, as I'm sure I'd end up scoring the floor with the utility knife at some point.

The layout of the hallway is a little bit of an odd space, and Ram Board is not inexpensive, so I didn't want to waste a bunch with a lot of overlap. As a result I ended up rolling out enough to cover most of the area, and then cut the various odd shapes, notches, and doorway pieces to size from the cut off. When all was said and done we had a small pile of scraps remaining...

...and a floor completely protected for the duration of this project.

It's our hope that this flooring protection doesn't need to stay down too long, and we can get things wrapped up in a somewhat reasonable amount of time. But regardless of the time it takes to knock out this project, we're happy that when we're done we'll be able to pull up the flooring protection to reveal beautifully protected antique pine flooring.

From our use of Ram Board for temporary flooring protection, we can absolutely recommend it and will likely be using it for the majority of our projects. We've paid about $75-$80 per roll shipped to our house, so it's about $0.25 per sqft plus tape. At about $500 for coverage of 2,000 sqft of finished space, that's a small price to pay to protect an expensive and time consuming flooring finish.

We need to figure out how we want to protect the stair treads

Do you have a temporary flooring protection that you like to use in your home when you're working on a project? Does this seem like something that might work well for you in your house? We'd love to hear your thoughts and experiences. 

Did you enjoy reading this post? Want to learn more about our first-hand experiences with other tools, devices or items used throughout our renovation? If so, check out our complete list of product reviews in our Toolbox Tuesday section. 

Note: We weren't compensated for this review. We simply want to share good products when we see them, and hope that learning from our experiences and/or mistakes can help save you time, money and frustration.

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With all of the new and improved cordless tool options on the market these days, how are you expected to make a decision on which tools are the best to add to your arsenal? More importantly, can you and should you decide on a single brand and not deviate?

For the last year I've been looking to upgrade some of my more dated 14v and 18v tools to newer cordless versions, but all of the options felt overwhelming. The more I looked the more it felt like I had to choose a tool brand battery I liked best and stick with it for all of the tool purchases. How did this happen? How did the choice of a battery platform begin driving all of our decisions? It just seems foolish.

After much deliberation and tool nerd reflection, I've finally made a decision, and I'm surprising myself. In the end I'm going to go with multiple battery brands so I'm not locked into a single format! Hear me out before you say that it's ridiculous (and possibly too expensive).

Over the last several months I've been able to attend and cover several tool and utility brand events on behalf of Charles & Hudson and ToolCrave.com (check them out to see my Milwaukee recap and DeWALT recap post event summaries). This has allowed me to get a glimpse into some of the latest and greatest hardware offerings and future plans from brands like Milwaukee ("Team Red") and DeWALT ("Team Yellow"). It also allowed me to pick the brains of a bunch of tool pros, journalists, and tool brand staff that are also real tool junkies. The whole time I had thoughts regarding my own decision in the back of my mind, so I was also using these events as an opportunity to improve my education to make my own choice.

The new Milwaukee one Handed Hackzawl on the M18 platform coming in October

If you look in our basement today you'll often see a mess, along with a good number of tool brands scattered around my shelves. From Makita to DeWALT, Milwuakee to Hitacchi, and so many brands in between. But when it comes down to it, my few battery powered tools are DeWALT or GreenWorks. This wasn't a conscious decision, it's just how it happened. I had a DeWALT 18v hammer drill, so when I needed a battery powered jigsaw I bought an 18v DeWALT jigsaw. I didn't put much thought into the tool beyond the battery, but today I understand that's a flaw in my thought process. Apparently it also caused me so much angst that I was unable to keep the basement organized. Yeah...that's the ticket.

Don't worry, I hate myself for the basement looking like this

The good news is that our mess of a basement is way cleaner now that I spent some quality time with it last weekend.

Still some work to do, but so much better. Okay, back to batteries.

I was too focused on which battery I had rather than the tool that I needed. What I should have been doing was looking at the tool I needed and then figuring our which features of which brand would work best for me. If the tools were nearly equal between brands, then I could go with the one whose batteries I already own, but as soon as I started to diversify my battery decision, I wouldn't be stuck having to go with a lesser preferred choice simply because the tool I wanted didn't fit the batteries I already had.

DeWALT's new line of cordless nailers with low profile 20v batteries

In fact, I was talking with Kyle, the owner of Rural Renovators (@rrbuildings on Instagram, he's building some awesome post and beam structures and sharing the process) who put it best when he said, "Choosing sides really doesn't help anyone, I prefer Team Best Tool." After all, there's little reason to focus so heavily on a single brand of tool that you ignore all of the benefits that tools from another brand can bring you.

Milwaukee's M12 has a great USB charger accessory that can charge USB devices or be charged by USB

When it comes down to it different tool brand batteries will have different strengths. For example:

Milwaukee has some of the best tool and battery combinations on the market when it comes to power and run time. They also maintain backwards compatibility with their old tools so your new batteries will work with older tools you might have. They also have plenty of tools you can't find in other brands. But their tools do tend to cost more than the competition as they have historically targeted the trades more than the DIYers.

Cordless Soldering Iron and Heat Gun that I really want

DeWALT has some of the best flexibility with their 20v line, including standard and low profile sizes. They also added their FlexVolt options last year to power tools like their cordless table saw, miter saw, new air compressor, track saw, and framing saw. Even if you absolutely love Milwaukee, many of these tool options just aren't available under the Milwaukee nameplate right now. There's even some level of cross compatibility in the 20v line among tool brands that are owned by the DeWALT parent company (MacTools, Porter Cable, Craftsman, Black + Decker), so keep that in mind.

DeWALT's FlexVolt battery powering their new Track Saw

More consumer friendly or entry level brands that are less focused on the pro market, like Ryobi, Porter Cable (now that they're under DeWALT/Stanley Black + Decker) and GreenWorks, will focus more on the basic and purpose built tool needs and budget friendly aspects of the market. If you're more concerned with building your basic tool inventory, and less worried about specialized tool compatibility, features like remaining charge indicators or bluetooth, battery power, and the more niche accessories that the batteries will work with, then these brands may well be for you.

Our 40V GreenWorks hedge trimmer, we also have a string trimmer.

There are also certainly more pro-centric tool brands that spring to mind, but don't let their sometimes hefty price tag deter you if you're a dedicated DIYer. A Festool purchase will sometimes cost you double or more than a competitor's tool, but if it's something you'll be using almost every day, like a track saw for many wood workers, sometimes the price is secondary to form, function, and quality of the tool and its features.

Bottom line is that there's always going to be some give and take no matter what you go with. Advancements in brushless motors to extend battery life and increase tool power, more versatile charging stations, and niche accessories will tend to set the bigger names apart from the smaller, but it all comes down to what you need and matters to you.

DeWALT's bluetooth enabled batteries to help with security and future capabilities

So the end result of my journey in making a tool purchase decision is a realization that I'm going to have many different battery brands on my charging station. I'll likely have primarily DeWALT with their 20V and FlexVolt lines (especially with the cross compatible DeWALT owned brands like Porter Cable, Stanley, Black + Decker), along with a fair number of Milwaukee M12 and M18 Fuel batteries. My existing GreenWorks yard tools will stay with us, and I may end up adding a few Festool options that I've been thinking about for many years.

The key to this whole toolbox transition is going to be keeping an eye out for specials or discounts where I can pick up extra batteries as a part of the tool purchase for not much more than the bare tool would cost itself. Taking this approach will allow me to add to the inventory of batteries for each brand, making it less of a task to add a tool that I need.

Milwaukee's new cordless stapler with the M12 battery

What I've learned is that there are just too many instances where one brand will have a tool that I would really like, but if I'm 100% on a single battery of a different brand, I'm stuck. There's just no need to add this level of angst to the purchase process. 

I'll be sharing the various new items I'm planning on picking up over the next several months and will also be doing some basic reviews of each. But one thing is for sure, you won't hear me doing any trashing of Team Red or Team Yellow, because my workbench will likely be all colors of the rainbow before too long. Now where can I find those Team Purple batteries?

So what do you think? Does my justification of multiple battery brands make sense, or are you still squarely in the "Team <InsertColorHere>" camp? What about your workshop? Do you have a particular brand that's more prevalent then others? Or are you hoping to move one way or another in your future purchases? Would love to hear your thoughts.

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This summer has felt like a battle against the elements when it comes to our home's vegetation. Take our ivy, for example. When we purchased our home in 2003 it was one of the few things, along with the large tree, that seemed to be growing in our urban "garden." 

While it was thin, a little scraggly, and did little to provide a much needed bit of greenery to inside of the yard as well as the outside of our wall, it was what we had to work with.

For the last 13+ years we've been slowing cultivating our relationship with this green monster. Sweeping away cobwebs, removing dead vines, and carefully trimming and sculpting the mass into a thick, lush, and sometimes overbearing bit of foliage. What was once a haphazard stringy collection of vines is now one of the favorite parts of our backyard. In some places the ivy is up to roughly 18" deep and adds a significant amount of privacy in the way of extra wall height. Today those scraggly lengths of vine now look like a border to a secret garden.

We're very proud of the effort we've put into turning this ivy into something respectable, especially since we don't have the best track record with keeping stuff alive. It took many years of cutting back the ivy three times per year, but it's now one of those elements in our garden that even our neighbors appreciate the added character it brings.

Many times we've become so focused on interior projects that the long green tendrils get out of hand, like the grasping clutches of a monster lurking outside. It grows high, it grows low, it provides shelter for vermin and mosquitos, and in some cases has become so cumbersome we can hardly open our back gate.

The record breaking heat of this summer has done little to dissuade its advances, and for weeks I've been commenting on how Alex and I needed to take the time to tame the beast. In fact, we have several exterior projects that have been looming for ages. Projects like trimming the ivy, repairing our deteriorating original windows, repainting the metal roof, back gate, front stairs and entire home's exterior, and rebuilding our brick back step (where the garbage truck has repeatedly run it over and broken off the corner). When looking at the list as a whole, it makes me want to completely shut down, but heck, when looking at the entire list it's easy to pick "trim ivy" as a manageable project we can knock out in a few short hours.

In year's past we hand clipped the ivy, a blister and profanity-inducing endeavor that prolonged the agony exponentially.

Sometimes the old way is the better way and that's the way we should do it, but sometimes the old way can give way to much better ways to accomplish the task at hand with less overall effort.  

In the years we've lived in Old Town, with our 15' wide row house and brick back courtyard, one collection of tools we've not amassed is an impressive array of yard and garden tools. While we've collected a seemingly massive number of indoor power tools, especially of the woodworking variety, there's been no need for outdoor items like a lawn mower, weed whacker, or hedge trimmer, among the dozens of other implements that are nearly standard issue for less urban dwellings. But now that we have a house that's far more country than not, and we have a sizable garden and yard to tend to, we're now in the position where we need to buy ourselves some solid yard tools.

Ever since we bought our house in the country we've been doing a lot of research on the yard tools we wanted to purchase. While we grew up using largely gas powered or corded electrical tools for yard work, technology has progressed to the point where battery powered cordless tools are not only available, but often work as good as their alternately powered alternatives. Lithium-Ion batteries have extended battery life and power of the tools, and a plan by different manufacturers to "dominate the landscape" of yard tools has made for a wide selection of tools to select from. 

After lengthy debate, reading lots of reviews, test driving many different brands, and combing over the tool offerings each brand's batteries could swap between, we settled on starting our collection with the GreenWorks 40V 24" hedge trimmer. Think of this as our gateway tool to the whole suite of options GreenWorks offers that all work with the same 40V batteries. From this first tool we can now jump to everything from a leaf blower to a chain saw to a lawnmower to a snow blower...all battery powered! One thing for sure, when Alex saw the list of tools that work with this battery, his eyes certainly lit up. 

We ordered the hedge trimmer and eagerly awaited its arrival so that we could officially add it as a new tool in our arsenal. When it arrived we were more than happy to welcome the super duper sharp and efficient electric hedge trimmer for our tool shed. And the best part? We're no longer dragging and draping extension cords to reach the far off hedges. Something that's proven difficult at the new house as well as here in Old Town.

The tool itself is light and balanced. It comes with a handy safety cover that protects the blades when not in use, and the handle allows the operator to twist and articulate it to easily trim the hedges from any any angle.

The overall construction is largely plastic, but it still feels sturdy, not flimsy like many battery powered tools. The trimmer's weight is sufficient but not overly heavy. I'm able to operate it easily with two hands, and when I need to switch to one handed operation when stretching for the hard to reach places, I can do so with ease. The safety switch for operation takes a little getting used to, but it's by no means hard. And the rechargeable battery lasts for about an hour and a half of cutting time and is able to reach a full re-charge in under 45 minutes.

One thing I'm very glad about is that we decided on the 24" trimmer instead of the shorter models. We have several areas that need trimming with a little reach, and the extra 4" or so allows us to reach everything we need to trim. Now that we have this trimmer for our country house, it can play double duty in Old Town where we no longer need to use the hand trimmers. Now instead of blisters and sore arms, I can zip through the cutting in no time flat.

I imagine that my cutting now likely looks a little like Edward Scissorhands crossed with the Tasmanian Devil. What used to take up to four hours to complete was easily knocked out in about an hour and half last week. That's on less than one full charge of the 40V battery! 

Now that we have this cordless trimmer in our outdoor tool collection, I'm sure Alex is already looking at the other options he can pick up. But before we get to that next major steps, we'll keep putting this trimmer through the paces to make sure we want to stick with the GreenWorks brand. I mean, picking a specific brand of tool and sticking with them for all of your battery powered needs is even more commitment than choosing wedding china these days.

Do you have any experience with any outdoor cordless yard tools? If so, any thoughts on the brand you chose and whether it's worked out well for you? So far so good for us, but we always like to hear opinions from everyone else.

Did you enjoy reading this post? Want to learn more about our first-hand experiences with other tools, devices or items used throughout our renovation? If so, check out our complete list of product reviews in our Toolbox Tuesday section. 

Note: We weren't compensated for this review. We simply want to share good products when we see them, and hope that learning from our mistakes can help save you time, money and frustration.

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Wendy and I spent time with our parents and Christmas with Wendy's very large extended family, and with good friends for a low key New Years. But before we headed out of Alexandria, we noticed a little holiday magic had returned to our neighborhood.

If you're a long time reader, or you've stumbled through our archives, you may have be familiar with the Old Town Llamas. These two stuffed and fuzzy creatures periodically adorned a neighbor's front window, dressed in an outfit to celebrate an upcoming holiday or event. They've been disappointingly absent for the last few years, causing great sadness among all aware of their existence.

Well, I'm very happy to report that the Llamas have returned for this holiday season, complete with Christmas lights and a shiny red nose. You've not heard of Rudolph the Red Nosed Llama? That's a shame.

Whether they're on a comeback tour or this is their swan song, we're quite happy to see them again.

Beyond the Return of the Llamas, our other blog related news has to do with a few gifts we received for Christmas.

Now that we've had our other home for a little while, Wendy and I have been starting to do some work on the rooms that were in some desperate need of a little TLC. It's nothing major so far, and I promise we'll share a bit more in a dedicated post about the work, but it's been fun tackling the little projects. However, the process of tool lugging has been a major pain.

You see, if we want to work on a project over a weekend, we need to think of all of the tools and supplies we may need, pack everything up, keep enough room in the car for the tools (even though we're probably already full of furniture or other stuff), take them out to the house, and then pack them all up and bring them back when we're all done.

We seem to need most of these tools at both houses, hence the lugging. I'm talking essentials, like screw drivers, drills, pry bars, tape measure, etc. These are not your big ticket items, but rather the stuff you're always grabbing for.

Rather than continuing to fumble around with the same stuff week after week, my idea is collect a set of "duplicate" tools that will live at the new house. I'd rather focus on bringing the specialty tools that are not frequently used and are only needed for something specific for that weekend or project. That way, if those specialty tools need to stay in one place or the other for an extended period, that's fine. The drywall pole sander is a good example of one of those tools.

To remedy this inconvenience I've begun building a list of these essential tools, and I received the first few over the Christmas holiday.

So I'm bringing back Toolbox Tuesday (or sometimes Thursday) while I put together this collection. I'll talk about the tools we're getting, why we choose the ones we choose, and what makes me view them as an essential element to my toolbox.

The goal here is to establish tools that are, in my opinion, essential to our DIY lifestyle. But more importantly, since this isn't my first DIY rodeo, I've been able to learn from past mistakes when compiling my list, so I hope this can be a guide to a future DIYer looking to either build, or round out their tool collection.

The first tool, or tools as it may be, in our Essential Tools set, is this great Dewalt case of drill and driver bits, a magnetic tray, plastic box, and organizer. I found this gem under the Christmas tree and can't be happier with it.

I'd say this fits more in the category of "complementary tool" than anything else, but certainly essential.

My first time around I ended up buying the various drill bits, screwdriver bits, hex bits, etc, all in different packages. This has led to the various bits being all over the place, in different boxes, and often lost. I mean, I've even found random drill bits in my underwear drawer! This single box approach should allow me to keep better stock of what I have and don't have at any given time, and keep important tools from ending up in storage with my under garments.

The best part of this set, the most commonly used driver bits, like the small philips, hex, and star bits, yeah, they have three of each for when I begin losing them. They must know me.

The carrying case is a bit large, so I won't be tossing it in the tool bucket, but the idea here is to keep organized and put stuff back when I'm done. In practice, we'll see how well I keep with the "put it back when you're done with it" rule I'll need to follow, but at this point I have high hopes.

The major addition to this whole thing over other bit sets I've purchased is the little magnetized tray compartment for holding screws and bits that are in use. This is something I'll have to work into my practice, as I typically just put the screws or bits I'm not using in my mouth, but I know how bad of a plan that is for so many reasons.

So this is the first of what will be many essential tools I'm going to outline. I'm not doing this is any sort of an order. This will be more of an "as they are acquired" approach. I'll be buying tools new, picking them up second hand, salvaged, reclaimed, whatever. But in each case, the Essential Tools list will contain duplicate tools so important to our projects, that we need one in each tool store.

Do you have anything you look at as a tool you absolutely must have? Maybe it's an every day item, like a ratcheting screwdriver, or a tool you never realized you needed until you used it. Would love to hear your thoughts.

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As many of you may know, I'm a bit of a tool junkie. Whether I'm researching, using, or wishing I had a particular tool, I've become tool obsessed over the last few years.

I'm not exactly sure when it happened, but at some point my Christmas list experienced a metamorphosis of magnificent proportions.

While I once wished and hoped Santa would bring the latest and greatest in GI Joe play sets, the coolest new video game tech gadget (Nintendo power glove), or the Star Wars action figure set I was certain would likely complete my life...

...at some point, roughly coinciding with the purchase of our home, my holiday wish list quickly began looking like the inventory list of a tool store in search of that item that might just let me complete a project.

Tape measures and hammers turned into saws and routers, and a hungry tool monster was born, always looking for that perfect tool to make life just a little easier, and project results just a little bit (or a lot in many circumstances) better. Besides, there's just something about a new tool bag or crate straight from the box that get's me all giddy. Unlike toys, a brand new, clean, and unblemished tool holds so much potential! 

So when we were recently asked by Rockwell Tools to review an item in their arsenal of "Tools for People that Rock" campaign, we were naturally intrigued. We don't do a lot of sponsored posts on our blog, and that's primarily because I really only want to share things we really and truly believe in. However, I was very impressed with the tools Rockwell has in their product line, and when I looked over the list Rockwell offers, one in particular caught my eye. Their Sonicrafter 20V MaxLithium cordless oscillating multi-tool looked to be a portable cordless wonder.

I've been a tremendous fan of oscillating tools since I picked up my first one about eight years ago. Its tremendous versatility can be seen in the hundreds of different cutting, sanding, grinding, and polishing attachments. Whether I'm working on detailed cutouts or need to cut a quick hole, an oscillating tool is sure to do the trick.

However, the fact it's a corded tool means I always need an outlet nearby, the blade change process requires an Alan wrench and several minutes of trying to secure the screw while holding the blade still, and I have to make sure the attachment I'm buying works for the brand of tool I have. These are all inconveniences that I'd rather not be bothered by.

As a result, I've actually been looking for a good cordless oscillating tool for some time, and with the purchase of our second home, my need for duplicates of essential tools like this really jumped up on the priority list.

So in steps the Rockwell Sonicrafter 20v Litium-ion oscillating multi-tool and 27 piece attachment kit Rockwell sent us to review. This great handheld tool set includes five cutting attachments.

The 20v MaxLithium battery offers a substantial charge that will keep the tool operating at the desired adjustable speed until the batter is drained, rather than slowing as the charge is lost. It also obviously means I can work freely and untethered, no longer bound by the reach of the tool's cord.

Overall the tool feels solid and well made. It's just over three pounds with the battery installed, and the battery weight really offers an excellent balance while using the tool. When switched on, two LEDs on the sides of the tool's body light your work area rather well.

But the absolute best part of this tool is its quick change and locking clamp "Hyperlock" that allows you to change from a blade to a sander to a paint scraper to any number of other attachments with only a flip of a lever and a twist of your wrist.

I was initially skeptical the lever system would be able to hold the blades securely in place. I've often had issues with the blade moving on my other oscillating tool, no matter how much I tighten the lock nut. But it seems Rockwell has the formula for keeping the blade in place with only minimal effort. Their materials state it has a holding force of one ton. 

If you're not sure whether or not you need an oscillating cutting tool in your tool box, trust me when I say that you absolutely do. It's so versatile that there's a use for it in almost any project. And if you've already got another tool and a whole truckload of attachments, the Sonicrafter has a "universal fit system" that allows you to use the blades of other manufacturers with this tool. The only caveat, you must use a set screw to fix it in place. No twist and lock action when you're not using Rockwell attachments.

Being a true tool nerd, I couldn't wait to break it out of its packaging and give it a spin, but I needed a quick place to give it a try. Then I had an idea.

We're doing a little exploration behind drywall at the new house and I suspect that the original plaster is lurking just behind the layer of sheetrock that a previous owner hung. Being a naturally curious chap, I wanted to see what kind of shape the walls were in, but there was no good place to start the drywall demo on the ceiling. Before we had the tool, we made a small hole and then just started ripping away at it. Granted, I could have done a much cleaner job, cut with a utility knife, then sawed away, but I was impatient.

Now I'm not one to typically tear away, but that's just what we did on that poor ceiling. The end result of ripping down drywall, as can see above, is often a torn paper covering that is both unsightly and difficult to repair.

But using the oscillating tool to cut a more even and straight line in the drywall was just what the tool doctor ordered. In under a minute I had adequately cut back the drywall covering enough to see that the ceiling plaster is actually in pretty great shape. Perhaps this is something we can bring back out and repair throughout the room? At the very least, I have a decently square opening that will allow me to either open up more of the ceiling, or prepare a patch piece to repair eventually. But between you and me, I plan on using my new tool to cut out a lot more of this drywall and expose the rest of the plaster. And since the tool is precise and small, I'll be able to do all of the work without further damaging any of the fragile plaster.

This was just one of many projects this tool has been mentally slated for. And while this goes nowhere near showing the ridiculous number of uses this tool has in projects, I was able to get a good feel for the tools power, comfort, and ability to work its way though material. Overall it felt really good, and I'm looking forward to using it more. However, It did require me to pull it out of the packaging and use it, but as much as it looks great clean, every tool tends to look just a little bit better once it's covered in a little demo dust and project progress. Don't you think?

Reader Reward

We liked the cordless Sonicrafter so much that we asked Rockwell if they wouldn't mind offering one as a giveaway to one of our readers. Being fans of all DIYers that rock, they were more than happy to do a giveaway. So whether you're looking to round out your own tool collection, or to score a pretty spectacular gift for the tool lover in your family, this great tool will surely do the trick.

Beyond this giveaway, if you're interested in possibly winning other tools from Rockwell's line, Rockwell has a promotion going on right now that's a "Give one, Get one Sweepstakes." You can win the whole suite of Rockwell's tool lineup for yourself, as well as a whole set for someone else. You can enter on their sweepstakes page.

Also, as part of our review, Rockwell is offering readers of Old Town Home 15% off any purchase you make on their website through December 31, 2014 using coupon code HOMESWEETHOME15. The code is valid on any purchase from RockwellTools.com

Details

• PRIZE: One Rockwell 20V MaxLithium Sonicrafter Oscillating Multi-Tool w/ Hyperlock - (a $159 value)
• GIVEAWAY CLOSES: Sunday, December 14th at 11:59pm EST.
• AND THE WINNER IS: One lucky winner will be chosen by random.org and announced on Monday, December 15th, so be sure to come back then to see if you're the winner.
• PRIZE REDEEMABLE: The winner will be asked to provide their home address and the tool will be shipped directly to them.
• TO ENTER: Comment on this post with the words “TOOLS THAT ROCK”, and tell us a little bit about projects you'd like to use this tool on, or who you'd like to give it to as a gift. (One comment entry per person please.) 
• WHO'S ELIGIBLE: This Reader Reward is open to participants in the United States only.

Please see our complete terms & conditions page for more details. This post was made in partnership with Rockwell Tools. While they donated a tool for our review, our projects, thoughts, and opinions are solely our own. 

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...to individual "punch list" items from the lengthy list Wendy put together over the winter after she decided "our house is starting to look like we don't give a crap that it's looking horrible."

Yes, that's our grill cover. Yes, that's moss growing on it. Yes, that's a hole in it so it's really no doing anything to protect. No, we're not happy with ourselves. Yes, we should be ashamed. How do we drown our pool of sorrows filled by our own self loathing? We visit puppies at the Animal Welfare League of Alexandria, that's how. (We were thrilled to learn these darling babies have now found a foster home!)

And going out to happy hour (actual post happy hour photo taken and then texted to unsuspecting friends).

But while we've been knocking out these short term or one day projects, expressing disgust with our home, and taking needed breaks for happy hour and puppies, we've also been working consistently on our efforts to improve and get comfortable with our HVLP sprayer gun while painting our antique buffet turned vanity.

I've said it before, and I'll say it again. One of the most important aspects of being a capable DIYer is one's comfort level with the various tools and techniques necessary to get any given job done well. Experience combined with comfort are the building blocks of the confidence necessary to look at a project and decide you're going to both take it on yourself, and ultimately own it. But this doesn't come without taking that first step and building your familiarity.

The past several weeks, while I've been getting aquatinted with my new HVLP sprayers, has been a little bit of a bumpy road while getting the hang of it under the various paint types and approaches. But I'm ready to plant my preliminary flag of occupation (not yet victory) on Mount Paint Sprayer and begin refining my techniques to achieve a better finished result.

Now that I'm feeling pretty good about where I stand, I want to share some of my decidedly amateur experiences with you. It's my hope that it may help you decide that an HVLP sprayer may be a great thing to round out your Toolbox and help you achieve the look you want on your smaller paint projects.

I've already shared our experience with priming our vanity carcass using the sprayer, and that turned out pretty well, but primer is an already thinned paint, easy to work with, and allows a little room for error. I knew I'd need to put in a bit more effort and research when it came to applying the top coat. It is, after all, my goal to have a beautifully smooth painted vanity that is in the same color as our custom not-quite-white trim color.

The first thing I investigated had to do with the all important step of thinning the paint. In order to achieve atomization (the point where the paint is broken into little droplets by the compressed air, which can be evenly sprayed on the surface), the paint has to be sufficiently thinned. Too thick and it will just spit spray paint splatters and clog the gun. Too thin, it becomes a high powered water gun. With the primer I just added some water to achieve my desired result. When it came to our paint, I wanted to be more exact and not risk the color or quality by using water. I purchased two items to perform this step of the process, a latex paint thinning additive called Floetrol...

...and something called a viscosity cup.

The responsibilities of these two items go hand in hand. The Floetrol is added to the paint and mixed thoroughly to thin it without affecting its color or method of application. It also promote's the paint's ability to "lay down" and smooth itself out while it dries, so it's even good for the brush painter that wants fewer brush marks or to maintain a wet edge longer.

The main things you have to remember about using this is that it extends dry time, and the paint goes on thinner. The thinner paint requires more coats to achieve the same coverage, and the more fluid paint means more possibility of sagging if applied in too thick of a layer on a vertical surface.

The viscosity cup's role is to help determine if the right level of viscosity has been met for optimal HVLP sprayer operation. Whenever I think about viscosity, I think back to my high school physics classes on the subject, then I always think about motor oil commercials talking about "viscosity breakdown." The more viscous a liquid is, the thicker it is. That motor oil commercial is talking about how the relatively thick, or viscous, oil starts to thin over time, which is the same thing I want to do to the paint. As you add a thinning agent to the paint, you are effectively lowering the viscosity.

The idea with the viscosity cup is simple, it's supposed to tell you when you've lowered your viscosity enough to reach the ideal level for your sprayer. To do this, you fill the viscosity cup with your thinned paint, then you time how long it takes to empty out of the small funnel at the bottom. The ideal viscosity will be met when the time it takes the fill line of your paint to reach the bottom of the cup is no more than 30 seconds.

When I tried this before thinning, the paint took over 90 seconds to run completely out.

The paint we're using is a Benjamin Moore paint and primer combo, and it started out quite a bit thicker than many paints. The Floetrol bottle label suggested adding one quart to each gallon, but for our purposes I ended up using a full quart for about a half gallon of paint.

After very very very thorough mixing, I checked with the viscosity cup and achieved my 30 second empty time.

Through the wonders of blogging, I'll say I did it all in one shot. But in reality, it took quite a bit more guesswork. I think I must have added, mixed, and timed, about 20 times before I reached the 30 second mark. It pays to be thorough, and I didn't want to screw this up.

Once thinned, I poured my paint through the strainer and into my sprayer's cup, ready to get to work. Now you might think you just jump right into spraying. But you have to first make some adjustments to the gun to ensure your paint it ready to be applied. The two primary adjustments are with the paint volume through the material knob (usually the top knob on the back), and the trigger depression through the fan knob (middle knob on the back).

These two knobs control just how much paint gets into the body and how it sprays onto the surface. I've heard that you start with the top knob fully closed (clockwise) and middle one partially open. The middle knob controls how far you can pull your trigger back and how much air gets through, which controls the pattern the paint sprays onto the surface, and the top controls the paint flow.

I set up a piece of cardboard so I could adjust the spray until I achieved that solid bullseye shot, rather than an oblong spray of speckled paint, then I started painting.

The job tends to go quickly, so there's really not much time for photos. But I've found it's best to keep the trigger pulled and spray as consistently as possible. I start spraying not yet on the piece, then allow the spray to cascade over the whole thing.

Since I'm a rookie, after the first coat I ended up with a saggy drip or two that I had to deal with. I was slightly crushed at my amateur ways, expecting to be some sort of an HVLP phenom, but I knew how to fix this issue. This happened because I applied way too much paint on an area. I have to keep reminding myself that "thinner is better." (You can see that I started to sand this just a tad before the photo, but then I thought "hey, this is something I should probably photograph to show everyone my rookie mistake.)

After a full dry, I grabbed some sandpaper and got to work. First, using an extra 120 grit pad I had laying around, I took off the major ridge of the drip. 

I followed that up with a little 220 grit paper over the lump to smooth the who area, then hit the whole rest of the vanity with the 220 again.

Leaving a smooth surface, I was ready for the next coat, and my next adventure as a sprayer. I'm getting really excited about this newfound capabilities as an amateur HVLP paint sprayer person. I even told Wendy she's free to find random furniture on the street that she can bring back and I can now paint. This opens a whole world of possibilities.

I can't wait to both get to the finished result, and share it all with you. This is a much longer process than I anticipated, but I'm taking my time to ensure I get it right. All told I'll end up with 2 coats of primer and 3-4 coats of paint. Not too bad, all things considered, but it takes a while when you're waiting days between coats our of pure laziness. 

Do you have any experience with HVLP sprayers? How am I doing? Be gentle, I'm not sure my amateur status can handle a pro's critique. 

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Occasional broken nails, nail heads too low to grab, and minor damage to the board's surface left me wondering if there was a better tool out there? Perhaps something more specifically created for pulling nails?

Way back when I wrote about my solution, a commenter from a company that makes a purpose built nail removing tool called the Nail Nippers left a comment. I looked into the tool and thought it looked interesting, but I didn't have an immediate need for it, so I just filed the idea away.

Well, I knew I'd need something better as I approached last weekend's window restoration, so a few weeks ago I went ahead and ordered an 11" Nail Jack nail puller from Amazon. You know, all in the name of research and good Toolbox Tuesday material.

Today, on this Bully Pulpit of Toolbox Tuesday, I stand before you, an absolutely and unequivocally converted man!

Before I go any further, if you're looking for that perfect stocking stuffer or small gift for the DIYer or craftsman in your life, drop what you're doing and buy this tool. You just might win the holidays if you do.

The idea of the tool is simple. A purpose built and ergonomic tool to easily perform the sometimes very difficult/tricky task of old nail removal. Whether you're dealing with old molding, flooring, or just about any reused material, you need a good and effective way to remove old nails from the material. Well, this tool is your guy.

The head is shaped like a massive pair of snips with a pincher like base and flat bottom that can get right down to work. But unlike the nippers, the tool has multiple surfaces based on whether you're trying to get down under the nail head or securely grab the sides of a protruding nail.

The previous tool I used has the tendency to allow too much pressure when removing something brittle (like an old cut nail) and shear off the nail, leaving you with a piece of metal you can do nothing more than stare at with general disdain. This tool doesn't allow that extreme amount of pressure and instead allows you to gently remove the nail from its seat, easing it out a little at a time.

The use of the tool is straight forward. You simple drop the tool down on the work, work the edges under or against the nail head, squeeze tightly, and rock the tool back using the work surface as a base, lifting the nail as you rock. With little effort and no time, even the most stubborn nails are free from their bonds.

The surface area of the bottom of the tool is large and flat to reduce the risk of damaging the material surface. This is ideal in a situation where you don't want any sort of dents or dings. Previously, I had to use a flat piece of metal under the tool, which was just a pain. This resolves that issue.

The various areas of the head, from the slightly separated tip, to the large flat interior, allow for all different kinds of nails, from the small finish type nails to the large gauge. I've owned this tool for about two weeks and have already successfully removed about 100 nails from various projects, all with wonderful results.

The only issue I've had with the use of the tool has to do with the length of the handles and position they take in certain tight quarters situations where I can't get a good angle on the nail head. For this reason alone I'll keep the old nippers nearby, just in case I need them.

All in all, this tool is a winner, and an inexpensive and wonderful addition to my toolbox, and I'll be surely using it for years to come. The company that makes it actually makes a smaller version too, and now I'm contemplating buying one of those tools too.

What do you think? Will you add this to your toolbox/bucket? Perhaps you have an alternate solution that you're quite happy with that I don't know about. If so, let us know.

Did you enjoy reading this post? Want to learn more about our first-hand experiences with other tools, devices or items used throughout our renovation? If so, check out our complete list of product reviews in our Toolbox Tuesday section. 

Note: We weren't compensated for this review. We simply want to share good products when we see them, and hope that learning from our mistakes can help save you time, money and frustration.

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Professional shops and people that I'd safely qualify as "less hobbyists and more diehards" often have beautifully complex, expensive, and integrated multi-phase dust collection systems, made up of interconnected tubes, intersections, shutoff ports, collection cylinders, and a centralized dust collection mechanism. These are large, impressive, and unrealistic for most.

A massive and custom dust collection system by WHESCO Group

Personally, I've got my eye on a particular Delta dust collection unit that I'd love to make my "shop" home to, but I have neither the space in our existing cramped basement, or the critical spousal buy in at this time to make it a reality. One day, many years from now, when I might perhaps have a respectable wood shop, I'll surely have a bang up system with integrated dust collection all over the place, but until that day, I need to make something else work.

At this point I've got a really great setup with my Shop-Vac and it tends to work wonders. Between the HEPA filter, filter bags, and adequately sized Shop Vac, dust during use of the table saw, miter saw, and orbital sander (all worst offenders for throwing dust) all tends to be kept at a minimum.

However effective as my setup is, it has its problems. The worst problem is simply how fast the filter bags I've been using tend to fill up and must be changed. Given the somewhat steep cost of the bags, I figured there had to be a better way.

I did my research and have been using a "tool" for quit some time that has made a world of different, and it's both low cost and gloriously simple! It's the Mini 2 Stage Cyclone Dust Separator bucket top.

This "tool" is more of an accessory to any Shop-Vac and dirt collecting area more than anything else. It's a simple piece of molded plastic that turns any standard sized five gallon bucket and Shop-Vac into a two stage dust and debris collection system. I've been using it for a few years now and it absolutely works wonders. 

I've been able to work for weeks using a single Shop-Vac filter bag, only emptying the intermediate bucket once it gets over half way full. And the best part, it's quick and easy to check your fill level just by looking in the bucket, no need to open up the Shop-Vac and guess as fill level.

The key to this little device is its great design. The cyclone top has an input and output and pops onto the top of any old standard sized five gallon bucket. You can see more or less how the whole thing works by taking a look at the underside.

The debris comes in one side and is directed in a cyclone fashion around the interior of the bucket. The idea of this gizmo is simple. While it collects debris, the heavier items fall into the bucket, while the fine particles venture into the Shop-Vac bag. The end result is a bucket that collects far more debris than the vacuum, and a vacuum that sucks better without filling up as quickly.

All you need is an extra length of vacuum hose so you can hook the Shop Vac up to the bucket while vacuuming with the other hose or connecting it to the outlet port of your dust creating tools. I've used this with the table saw, miter saw, router table, biscuit joiner, orbital sander, and even while sanding drywall! 

As soon as you turn the vac on you know it's working when the lid gets sucked right down on the top of the bucket. If you try to pull it off it's not very easy to lift, so it's moving a pretty decent volume of air.

The only word of advice I can give is to add a little weight to the bottom of your five gallon bucket. maybe some stones or a little mixed cement or thinset. When the bucket is empty and you start to get at the end of your hose, the light bucket has a tendency to tip over. But even when this has happened to me, the lid still hasn't come off, so no major issues.

Do you have a best method for collecting dust and debris in your "shop?" Does this seem like a good solution to you? At the price, it's absolutely worth picking one up if you're of the population of DIYers that are known to occasionally make a mess.

Did you enjoy reading this post? Want to learn more about our first-hand experiences with other tools, devices or items used throughout our renovation? If so, check out our complete list of product reviews in our Toolbox Tuesday section. 

Note: We weren't compensated for this review. We simply want to share good products when we see them, and hope that learning from our mistakes can help save you time, money and frustration.

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